Did Ancient Peruvian cacao farmers used the wind to harvest? Yes, but not just the wind

Inca cacao farmers listened to the wind before harvesting

By Fransisca La Coya & Roman Gana FarmersRelief.org

Qosqo, Peru January 05, 2025

"Kay rimayqa, sachakunapa sumaq yachayninta yuyaykusun, ñawpaq runakunamanta qillqasqa."

This saying- in the ancient Quechua language of the Inca people - reminds us of the deep wisdom of the trees, as told by our ancestors.

The cacao farmers of Peru have survived for thousands of years. They’ve weathered empires, revolutions, and the occasional corporate handshake that left more than just hands empty. Yet they persist, nestled in the Andes or deep in the Amazon basin, tending their trees with the same care their ancestors gave to life itself. Perhaps it’s because they don’t see cacao as a crop but as a gift from the gods. And when you believe the gods are watching, you tend to do things right.

The Gods Are in the Beans

For the ancient natives of Peru, cacao wasn’t just food. It was life. They called it the "food of the gods" and believed each pod was a sacred vessel. Offerings of cacao were made during rituals, marriages, and even burials. The gods, they thought, gave cacao to the people to sustain them, to remind them that the earth gives and takes, but mostly gives if you treat it well. These farmers still hold to this wisdom, whispering quiet prayers as they plant and harvest. Maybe it's superstition, or maybe it's just humility in the face of something bigger. Either way, it works.

Growing on the Edge of Heaven

Peruvian farmers grow cacao in the shadows of towering mountains and under the canopy of endless rainforests. They practice agro-forestry, where cacao trees live alongside banana plants, coffee shrubs, and towering native trees.It’s not just smart farming—it’s survival. The mix of plants prevents soil erosion, attracts pollinators, and keeps the ecosystem intact. These farmers aren’t just growing crops; they’re keeping an entire world alive. “The land does not belong to us,” an elder farmer says. “We belong to the land.”

The Dance of Fermentation

Turning cacao into chocolate isn’t just a process; it’s an art. After harvesting the beans, farmers in Peru pile them into wooden boxes to ferment. They watch over the beans like mothers with newborns, turning them at just the right moment to let the magic happen. Fermentation isn’t just about flavor—it’s about unlocking the soul of the bean. A poorly fermented bean, they say, is like a bad conversation: it leaves a bitter taste that doesn’t go away.

Echoes of the Ancients

The Mayas called cacao "kakaw" and used it as currency. The Peruvian natives didn’t have coins, either; they had something better—food that could nourish the body and stir the soul. Their legends tell of a time when humans and gods lived closer, and cacao trees were bridges between the two worlds. Maybe they still are. A native saying goes, “The tree whispers only to those who listen.”

A Lesson in Simplicity

Cacao farmers of Peru aren’t chasing skyscrapers or shareholder meetings. Their wealth is the soil beneath their feet, the rain that falls when it’s needed, and the stories passed down with each harvest. They’ve found a way to live that doesn’t demand more than the land can give. In a world obsessed with progress, perhaps we need to ask ourselves: are we moving forward, or just moving?

Wouldn’t it be something if we listened to the trees...

"Sach’aqa rimanqa, uya sonqonpi mak’aykuspa qhapariyman." The tree whispers, but only to those who listen with both heart and ear.

La Coya